Glycolic Acid for Skin Benefits: What's with the Hype!
SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
Overview
Glycolic acid is one of many AHAs(Alpha Hydroxyl Acids) that is used in skincare. Glycolic acid is a water-soluble, chemical exfoliant that can be used to deal with many skin issues such as dark spots, wats, dull and rough skin.
Glycolic acid is also known with other rather uncommon names, hydroxyacetic acid or hydroxyethanoic acid. Other alpha hydroxyl acids(AHAs) include
Lactic acid found in sour milk
Tartaric acid found in tomatoes
Malic acid found in grapes
Citric acid found in lemons and other citrus fruits
Mandelic acid from bitter almonds
Glycolic acid itself can be found in sugarcane or beets which can further be fermented and extracted involving several processes to get pure glycolic acid which is then formulated in various skincare products and packaged for sale.
Over the years, glycolic acid has been fully embraced, whole-heartedly in the skincare community. Glycolic acid is known to be harsh to the skin but its an excellent exfoliant that can remove dead skin cells and reveal youthful, radiant and glowing complexion underneath when used as peels, scrubs, soaps, face cleansers or toners. Sometimes, glycolic acid is used solely as a pH adjuster in formulations.
Depending on skin type and if you have other underlying skin conditions can be a crucial factor when considering using or adding glycolic acid in your skincare regimen. Letâs explore the landscape of glycolic acid together!
In this article, weâre going to touch on several topics about glycolic acid like its unrealized benefits for skin, risks involved in using it on skin and several questions will be answered so that when youâre done reading this article you get to make the right choices when purchasing the glycolic acid-containing skincare products.
Table of Contents
1.0 Overview
2.0 How Glycolic Acid(GA) Works
3.0 What Does Glycolic Acid Do to Skin?
4.0 What are the Worst Side Effects of Glycolic Acid?
4.1 Who Should Avoid Glycolic Acid?
5.0 What Pairs Well with Glycolic Acid?
6.0 What Cannot be Mixed With Glycolic Acid?
7.0 Skin Types And Glycolic Acid
8.0 How to Use Glycolic Acid in Skincare Routine
9.0 Final Takeaway
10.0 Frequently Asked Questions
11.0 References
How Glycolic Acid (GA) Works
You first have to know that glycolic acid has smaller molecular size that can deeply penetrate in the skin. Glycolic acid is a potent chemical exfoliant that can sloughs off dead skin cells.
When you apply glycolic acid topically on skin in forms of peels, face masks or face cleansers, they break bonds of dead skin cells by dissolving them. This process is called exfoliation.
Exfoliation reveals new radiant skin and smoothen out texture and tone. Glycolic acid can then promote skin regeneration, moisture retention, cell turnover, proliferation of fibroblasts and collagen production.
Stimulate Collagen Production In Skin
Reduces Acne Breakouts
Fight off Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Melasma on Skin
Improves Skin Texture
Reduces Visible Signs of Aging
Smoothen out Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Lightens Skin Tags and Warts
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What Does Glycolic Acid Do to Skin?
Glycolic Acid is a chemical exfoliant that its main way of functioning on the skin is exfoliation which can in turn bring in benefits but could also carry with it risks. So let's dive deep and learn more about this skincare ingredient, shall we?
1. Stimulate Collagen Production In Skin
For skin to look youthful collagen is vital. Collagen makes your skin plump and voluminous so maintaining or increasing it can improve your overall skin health. Glycolic acid can stimulate collagen in stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis which can make your skin strong. It also support skin renewal on the process.
A research study showed that glycolic acid (GA) of concentrations between 8% to 25% in skincare formulations can promote collagen in skin. It was found out that gel formulations are suitable for oily skin while cream formulations are for dry skin.
Read More: Collagen Benefits for Skin in 2025
2. Reduces Acne Breakouts
Glycolic acid has been found to be able to reduce and even prevent acne breakouts when applied topically on face and acne-prone skin area such as the back (called âbacneâ) or shoulders. Thanks to anti-bacterial and acidic properties of glycolic acid common bacteria that cause acne such as Cutibacterium Acnes can be inhibited due to low acidic environment it can provide making it unsuitable for bacteria to live on skin. But also glycolic acid has oil control on pores which can discourage formation of cysts and acne.
Research reported that concentrations as low as 0.2% of glycolic acid can be sufficient in creating over-the-counter (OTC) formulations for acne and be effective.
3. Fight off Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) and Melasma on Skin
Melasma and hyperpigmentation can cause uneven skin complexion so incorporating glycolic acid in your skincare routine can exfoliate and remove dead skin cells in order to lighten and even out dark spots, moles, sun spots and age spots due to accumulation of melanocytes in clusters that can be seen as dark patches in your skin.
A study found out that glycolic peels on darker skinned individuals in six sessions can reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and lightened normal skin and it was found to be effective.
4. Improves Skin Texture
Uneven skin texture can make your skin look dull. Dull skin can make it difficult for other skincare actives to penetrate the skin. So, applying glycolic acid peel to remove dead skin cells can create even skin layer which is going to act as a clean âcanvasâ to layer other active ingredients in serums, moisturizers and creams.
There is a lot of evidence that glycolic acid peels with concentrations of 20% to 70% applied in ranges of 1-15 minutes depending whether its superficial or deep peels.
Another study was found to show significant improvement in skin texture with facial cream containing 10% glycolic acid.
5. Reduces Visible Signs of Aging
Amongst skincare actives that can reduce signs of aging is glycolic acid. Glycolic acid can reduce skin dullness and promote glowing complexion. In deeper skin layers, glycolic acid can promote collagen synthesis but also production of hyaluronic acid.
Accumulated melanin in skin patches, dark spots, sun spots, liver spots can be lightened and reduce post inflammatory hyperpigmentation over a long period of time that can make your skin lose your luster. Glycolic acid can inhibit overproduction of melanin.
6. Smoothen out Fine Lines and Wrinkles
When we age fine lines, furrows and wrinkles start to appear on your skin. You can always improve your skin and make it appear radiant and youthful. Using glycolic acid peel can smoothen out wrinkles and fight off other signs of aging.
A clinical study found out that glycolic acid can improve the appearance of wrinkles and proven to be effective.
Board certified dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss shared that, ââŠglycolic acid as an AHA can dissolve the bonds of the dead skin cells exfoliating the surface of the skin smoothing out the surface of your skin giving you a nice radiant surface in the long run as you use it regularly youâre going to help improve the look of fine linesâŠâ
7. Lighten Skin Tags and Warts
Skin tags, moles and warts are an overgrowth of melanocytes that can make your skin textured and are very hard to get rid of. Most of the time skin tags and moles require attention of a dermatologist and may be a symptom of another bigger skin issue. Using glycolic acid masks and peels can inhibit production of melanin in these moles and tags and have lightening effect on them.
Finding a glycolic acid containing skincare product like lotion or creams could help to fade out the dark moles and tags and make them stand out less on your face.
What are the Worst Side Effects of Glycolic Acid?
1. Increased UV Sensitivity
Despite glycolic acid having promising to lighten your skin while using it, it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays. This is a major setback for anyone who has sensitive skin or has skin conditions such as psoriasis or rosacea.
Some studies have found out that glycolic acid of 10% concentration can increase skin sensitivity though these effects wonât last more than a week upon quitting the treatment.
In order to benefit from glycolic acid, find formulations with lower concentrations but you should use sunscreen or sunblock SPF 30 to 50++ broad spectrum or other physical barriers (e.g clothes) that can prevent UV rays from affecting the you while glycolic acid works on your skin.
2. Hyperpigmentation
If glycolic acid is used with no precaution taken then instead of lightening your skin, you can experience tanning or even worse hyperpigmentation. Individuals with darker skin should be careful when using glycolic acid since it can trigger higher melanin production leading to uneven skin complexion.
In one study they discovered that glycolic acid increased UVA or/and UVB induced tanning. So, it very important to avoid sun by using sunscreen when using glycolic acid containing products
3. Inflammation
Glycolic acid can be inflammatory to some skin types, for those with compromised skin barrier or have skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea it can exacerbate these issues. Since glycolic acid has very smaller molecular size it can penetrate in deeper and trigger skin inflammation. You will also experience it as
irritation,
burning sensation and
itchiness.
4. Skin Redness
Glycolic acid can cause redness when used in higher concentration but using peels with concentration of 20% to 70% can cause redness temporarily. Using numbing cream can reduce the redness on the skin. Erythema can be more visible in fair-skinned than dark-skinned individuals so, its something to take notice to for melanated individuals.
Who Should Avoid Glycolic Acid?
If you have compromised skin barrier, broken skin or lesions, it is advised to skip products with glycolic acid. For those with skin conditions like
Rosacea
Eczema
Psoriasis
These skin disorders can be exacerbated by glycolic acid and cause skin sensitivity. If you have these conditions and want to use glycolic acid go for formulations with lower concentration between 0.2% to 2% and pair it with more gentle soothing ingredient such as niacinamide, panthenol or hyaluronic acid.
What Pairs Well with Glycolic Acid?
When it comes to combining skincare active ingredient, one should be careful in pairing the ingredients to bring better results with minimal to no adverse effects. You donât want to find yourself experiencing skin irritation or itchiness at the end of your every skincare routine. So letâs see what does and doesnât do well with glycolic acid.
Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide
These two ingredients complement each other. When glycolic acid exfoliate dead skin cells, niacinamide goes in to brighten and soothe the skin. Niacinamide counter the side effects such as dryness by boosting hydration, and irritation by calming the skin.
Glycolic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid
Another ingredient that you should think about when incorporating glycolic acid in your skincare regimen is hyaluronic acid. Find a product formulated with glycolic acid and hyaluronic acid together or layer these ingredients in your skincare routine steps so that you wonât be affected with things such as itchiness or redness.
For instance you can use glycolic acid toner followed by hyaluronic acid will work well.
Read More: Hyaluronic Acid for Skin: Benefits, Tips, Secrets and All-in-Between!
Glycolic Acid and Sunscreen
Sunscreen can not be overemphasized when using glycolic acid. Whenever youâre using glycolic acid in your skincare routine especially morning time (AM) you should not in any way skip sunscreen. Glycolic acid has a major risk of causing skin photosensitivity. Instead of having your skin lightened you can have yourself ending up with hyperpigmentation.
Find a nice mineral sunscreen of 50++ SPF broad spectrum, if you are dark skinned find the tinted version of mineral sunscreen.
What Cannot be Mixed with Glycolic Acid?
There are some of skincare actives that can not be mixed with glycolic acid since they can increase skin sensitivity.
Glycolic Acid and Retinol or Tretinoin
Vitamin A and its derivatives, be it retinol, tretinoin, adapalene or retinyl palmitate are usually very tricky to include in skincare routines especially when you already have skin disorder. Having said that retinol, tretinoin or other vitamin A derivatives should not be mixed with glycolic acid formulations.
They are just highly incompatible unless you like taking risks on expense of your skin. If you mix them you can experience skin redness, burning sensation and irritation.
Glycolic Acid and Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a very good ingredient to skin but should not be paired with glycolic acid. When using vitamin C with concentration of 10% to 20%, you should avoid using pairing it with glycolic acid since youâll be more likely to get irritation and itchiness.
Read More: How to Use Vitamin C Serum in Your Skincare Routine for Beautiful Skin
Can I Use a Glycolic Acid Toner Daily?
If you think you want to use vitamin C and glycolic acid use it as glycolic acid toner to lower your skin PH so that when you layer it with vitamin C serum since vitamin C works best in lower PH between 3 to 3.5.
Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid
This is another popular hydroxyl acid found in numerous skincare products. It is not an AHA, it is a BHA though since they are acids then it will be wise to not combine them in one skincare routine.
Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid
As with BHAs, glycolic acid should not be mixed with other AHAs(Alpha Hydroxyl Acids) since they can lead to skin sensitivity, itchiness, dryness, redness and irritation. Now when you pair glycolic acid with lactic acid in one skincare routine it can cause the skin to be over-exfoliated. Itâll be wise to avoid mixing them.
Skin Types And Glycolic Acid
In this section, we'll go through different skin types and their needs when it comes to using glycolic acid in general and other few things will be clarified on the way now let's go!
1. Sensitive Skin
When it comes to sensitive skin it is best to mind the percentage of glycolic acid, step in the skincare routine and type of formulation whether its a rinse off or leave on product before getting one.
Which Glycolic Acid is Best for Sensitive Skin?
If you have sensitive skin Iâll advise against using glycolic acid instead use skincare ingredients such as galactomyces, PHAs(Poly Hydroxyl Acids) and other enzymatic exfoliators like papain or even coenzyme Q10.
If you feel youâll miss out on benefits of glycolic acid then start using it in lower concentration formulations and increase the level as you go checking if you can tolerate it.
Which Glycolic Acid Percentage is Best?
For those with sensitive skin start with 0.2% glycolic acid in formulations and increase it to the level that you find suitable. If you have normal skin then you can seek skincare products up to 10% glycolic acid and use it in your skincare routine.
Always conduct a patch test on your skin and wait up to 24 hours to see if you get any allergic reaction or redness.
Dr. Davin Lim emphasizes that, ââŠyouâve got to stick with very low concentration somewhere between 5% to 10% and gradually go up to something like 15% the leave on time is the maximum of about 3 minutes but you have to neutralize it early if thereâs any redness stinging or irritationâŠâ
How Many Times Should I Use Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is that ingredient you wonât want to be using it everyday because it carries high risk of over-exfoliation that can leave you with compromised skin barrier. Glycolic acid should not be used in more than 3 times a week and to avoid UV sensitivity it is best to be used in evening (PM) skincare routine.
Here is what dermatologist Dr. Maxfield had to say, âThis is an ingredient that you might use once or twice a week in the night time and itâll help exfoliate your cells, kind of like that treat you would do on the days youâre not using retinoidâŠâ
Can I Use 7% Glycolic Acid Everyday?
As said before, glycolic acid 7% or beyond should not be a to go option everyday. You can use glycolic acid not more than 3 times a week so that your skin wonât be over-exfoliated.
2. Mature Skin
If you have mature skin or oily skin can increase the percentage to 10% to 15% since mature skin has more accumulation of dead skin cells due to slow cell turnover which can take even more than 40+ days.
3. Oily Skin
If youâve got oily skin then you can include it in your skincare routine go for glycolic acid toner or face and body creams containing glycolic acid. Start with 5% and the you can increase it to 15% but 8% is max for leave on formulations such as creams or lotions, just to be on the safe side when it comes to skin sensitivity. Avoid gel formulations if you have oily skin.
4. Dry Skin
You can incorporate glycolic acid in your skincare regimen to remove any ashy, flaky skin cells to reveal radiant glowing skin. Though you should be warned about burning sensation, stingingness and dryness as side effects of using glycolic acid. Find gel formulations and look to include humectants and soothing ingredients like aloe vera gel, glycerin, hyaluronic acid or panthenol for your exfoliated skin.
Other skin types could benefit greatly from using glycolic acid though as usual precatioun to the risks should be taken first. Other skin types are
Normal Skin
Combination Skin
Dark Skin
How to Use Glycolic Acid as a Deodorant in Armpits?
You want to tread with caution when using glycolic acid due to its exfoliating properties that may also lead to irritation. You have to remember underarms are areas with skinfolds that may also experience friction something youâd want to avoid while using glycolic acid as a deodorant.
In one of her videos Dr. Alexis Stephens warned about TikTok trends of using glycolic acid as a deodorant, ââŠtrying this idea I do caution that you be really safe about it because glycolic acid can be very irritating by nature and guess what this isnât going to actually stop the sweat underneathâŠâ
Will Glycolic Acid Lighten Underarms?
Glycolic Acid is itself an irritant so putting it in delicate area such as armpit or bikini area is likely to cause irritation due to friction because these areas are near the moving joints which could increase hyperpigmentation insead of ligtening it so skip these trends and find other better solutions like salicylic acid body wash, liqorice root or niacinamide to lighten the underarms.
When it came to this Dr. Dray had to say, ââŠalpha hydroxyl acids like glycolic, lactic, mandelic and also include salicylic acid, the reason you have to be careful is that these âguysâ theyâre irritating on non-armpit skin put them in the armpit and leave them on there go about your day sweating, rubbing the arms back and forth creating that friction can drive a lot of irritation into the skinâŠâ
Can I Use Glycolic Acid If I have Kelaris Pilaris aka Chicken Skin?
Yes, Glycolic acid is go to skincare ingredient for those with kelaris pilaris aka chicken skin and exfoliate the skin which over a period of time will shrink pores and make your skin surface more smooth with even complexion.
How to Use Glycolic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
Many people are using glycolic acid in a wrong way! Some individuals use glycolic acid as a toner, serum and creams, thatâs is too much of glycolic acid in one skincare routine! You probably need glycolic acid in only one step and it should be best if use in night time (PM) routine, as follows:
1. Cleansing
If you have skin type that is less tolerant to harsh ingredients then use it as an exfoliant in form of face cleanser. If you want to make your vitamin C very effective then apply glycolic toner to lower your skin PH that can create a good environment for vitamin C to be layered since it functions well on pH between 3-3.5.
2. Serum
Avoid serums with glycolic acid even if your skin can handle it. If you use glycolic acid serum over the long run, your skin is more likely to be over-exfoliated. So if you have used glycolic acid in the cleansing step, just go for niacinamide, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or peptides.
3. Moisturizer
Lastly, seal in with ceramide moisturizer or hyaluronic acid moisturizer or cream. If youâre planning on skin lightening you can use glycolic acid cream and lotion but in your night time routine in order to avoid photosensitivity during the day from UVA and UVB rays.
4. Sun Protection
If you found yourself in a position to use any of glycolic acid-containing products then you should never skip high quality sunscreen or sunblock since it can cause UV sensitivity.
Final Takeaway
Glycolic Acid (GA) as a skincare ingredient is amazing and great in many ways though should always be used with care. Depending on individuals, you might want to talk or consult with your dermatologist before indulging in skincare products with glycolic acid especially if you have underlying skin conditions to begin with.
Frequently asked questions
Why does glycolic acid burns?
Glycolic acid can cause burning sensation since when penetrating the skin due to its smaller molecular size can be pro-inflammatory which can be experienced as burning or irritation.
Can I use glycolic acid to exfoliate your lips?
Yes, you can simply pour glycolic acid toner on a cotton pad and rub on your lips to exfoliate dark, flaky chaps once or twice a week. So, skip sugar and salt scrubs for a better exfoliant, glycolic acid.
Can I use 7% glycolic acid toner ?
Of course, yes! You can find glycolic acid toner of 7% and patch test before adding it in your skincare routine. This concentration is rather mild than 15%.
Is glycolic acid bad for aging skin?
Since aging skin has more dead skin cells then including glycolic acid will do more good by exfoliating the dead skin cells to reveal radiant skin but also stimulate the skin to do cell regeneration.
Do dermatologists recommend glycolic acid ?
Many dermatologists suggest the use of glycolic acid where appropriate to exfoliate the skin and promote radiant, glowing skin as well as promoting collagen production.
References
Mridvika Narda, et al. (2020). Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNFâalpha in human skin explants. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7891644/
(2019). Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of a facial cream containing 10% free glycolic acid. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(19)33164-0/abstract
Jaishree Sharad. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy â a current review https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3875240/
Kays Kaidbeys, et al. (2003). Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12713551/
Y Funasaka, et al.(2001). The efficacy of glycolic acid for treating wrinkles: analysis using newly developed facial imaging systems equipped with fluorescent illumination https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11514125/
Tseng Fang Tsai MD, et al. (2000). Effects of glycolic acid on light-induced skin pigmentation in Asian and Caucasian subjects https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962200093488
R L Burns, et al.(1997). Glycolic acid peels for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in black patients. A comparative study. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9145958/
C M Wang, et al. (1997). The effect of glycolic acid on the treatment of acne in Asian skin. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9107290/